[NEW DELHI] India’s traditional open-air laundries, known as dhobi ghats, hold cultural significance and have provided livelihoods to thousands of washers for generations.

But these communal washing facilities now face a modern environmental challenge, in the form of microfibre – putting aquatic and human health at risk.

Tiny synthetic particles, released from clothes during washing, are polluting rivers, lakes and other water bodies in India, according to researchers.

They say major rivers such as the Jhelum in Kashmir and the Ganges in the north, as well as lakes across the country, are under threat.

Rouf Rafiq, assistant professor at the University of Kashmir, told SciDev.Net: “Microfibre pollution is a silent yet growing issue.

“Millions of synthetic fibres are shed from clothes during washing, especially in Dhobi Ghats and commercial laundries, where filtration systems are often absent.

“These fibres enter water bodies, accumulate over time, and disrupt aquatic ecosystems.”

A study by researchers at the National Institute of Technology (NIT) Srinagar, published earlier this year, was the first to measure the levels of microfibres in wastewater from Dhobi Ghats and similar commercial laundries.

In Hindi, dhobi means washerman, and ghats are landing or steps leading to the river for bathing or washing. They are part of India’s huge informal economy.

But according to the study dhobi ghats release over 3,200 microfibres per litre of wastewater, while commercial laundries discharge almost 37,000 microfibres per litre.

Most of these particles come from synthetic fabrics such as polyester and nylon, which are non-biodegradable. Once in the water, these microfibres harm aquatic life and eventually make their way into the human food chain.

In Kashmir, the Jhelum River and Dal Lake are crucial for the region’s ecosystem. They support tourism and provide livelihoods for thousands of people, including fishermen. However, microfibre pollution poses serious risks, affecting both wildlife and humans.

Many dhobi ghats in Srinagar operate along the banks of the Jhelum River, with the wastewater from these ghats flowing untreated into the river.

“Dal Lake and the Jhelum River are lifelines for thousands of families in Srinagar,” said Irfan Khan, a local environmentalist.

“The rising microfibre pollution is a silent disaster we must address immediately.”

However, for washermen like Bashir Ahmad, a third-generation worker at a dhobi , the river is central to their work and life. “This is our only source of income,” he said. “If we are forced to stop or change how we work, what will happen to our families?”

Ahmad and others like him feel helpless as they lack resources and knowledge about alternatives. “No one has guided us or given us affordable solutions. We need help from the government and experts,” Ahmad added.

Nazir Ahmed, another washerman, stressed that the ghats are a part of their heritage. “We’ve inherited this work from our fathers and grandfathers. It’s not just a job; it’s our identity,” he said.

Ghulam Hassan Mir, an elder from the dhobi ghat community, shared a similar sentiment. “This work has been passed down to us for centuries.

“Washing clothes in the river is not just a livelihood; it’s an art and a responsibility we’ve carried with pride.”

But, he added: “Times are changing and we need guidance to protect both our heritage and the water that sustains us.”

As well as microfibres, chemical detergents pose a huge risk to aquatic life and human health, while untreated sewage ends up in many rivers.

A man pours liquid into a bucket filled with dark fabric as part of the washing process near the water. (Image credit: Numan Bhat)

Rafiq believes there are ways to balance tradition with sustainability.

He suggests installing low-cost microfibre filters at Dhobi Ghats. These filters can trap synthetic fibres before the wastewater enters water bodies.

“Centralised laundry facilities with proper wastewater treatment systems could also help. These would reduce pollution and improve working conditions for washermen,” Rafiq said.

Other solutions include using biodegradable detergents and raising awareness about eco-friendly practices among washermen.

Local residents and organisations are also calling for government action. Mohammad Yaseen, a Srinagar resident, stressed the need for financial aid and education programs for washermen. “They are willing to adapt, but they need resources and support. This is a shared responsibility,” he said.

Environmental groups are also emphasising the role of households in minimising microfibre pollution.

“This problem starts at home because we all use synthetic clothes,” said Suhaib Rafiq, a member of a Srinagar-based NGO Shahr-e-Khaas Literary & Cultural Welfare Society, adding: “People need to be aware of how their laundry choices impact the environment.”

This piece was produced by SciDev.Net’s Asia & Pacific desk.